Renting in Lisbon: what it actually took

As a freelancer with no Portuguese tax history, I could not provide most of these.

What I did

In the first four months, I rented a furnished room through a mid-term rental platform, for 750 euros a month. It was expensive for a room, but it gave me an address for my residence application.

Then I spent 11 weeks looking. I sent around 70 messages on Idealista, visited 12 apartments and was rejected or ignored for most. Two agencies told me directly that they preferred Portuguese tenants with contracts.

Finally, I found a one bedroom in Penha de França for 1,150 euros. The owner is an older woman who had rented to Brazilians before. She asked for two months' deposit and four months of rent upfront, plus my bank statements. That was 6,900 euros at signing. I paid it because I was exhausted.

What I would do differently

• Budget for a large upfront payment. Six months of rent is common for foreigners without Portuguese income history.
• Look outside the centre. Almada, Amadora and Odivelas are connected by metro or ferry and much cheaper.
• Use personal networks. My best leads came through a Brazilian designers' WhatsApp group.
• Get your contract registered. Landlords must register leases with the tax authority. A registered contract lets you declare rent in your tax return and gives you legal protection.

Is it worth it?

Lisbon is beautiful, safe and full of creative people. I have friends, a great café culture and the ocean nearby. But housing is a real problem, and it has created tension between locals and foreigners. I understand why. Many Portuguese people earning local salaries cannot afford to live in the city where they grew up.

My advice

If you can, consider Porto, Braga or Coimbra, where rents are lower. If you choose Lisbon, be prepared for a long search, lots of documents and a significant amount of money upfront. And please be respectful: we are guests in a city with a housing crisis.